Bradleys

10-01-2009
Andy Hayler  0 

A simple neighbourhood restaurant with a pleasant little garden accessed through French doors that open out in summer. Here are notes from a recent meal. To begin with I had a rather watery Jerusalem artichoke soup, which I have to say I can cook better (1/10). My companion had a much better dish of four scallops, which were nicely cooked with a simple cauliflower puree and a smear of red wine sauce (4/10).

For main course I had tuna, cooked rare, covered with a pepper crust and served with some ordinary potato crisps (2/10). My companion again fared better with a loin of venison, cooked pink and served with a shallot tatin and a tasty horseradish mash. Some accompanying (charged extra) French beans and snow peas were competently done (3/10). A pear tatin for dessert was reasonable, while a caramelised apple was less good, with an over-flaky strudel. Coffee was fine, and the breads were good. The wine list is almost entirely New World, including a good selection of Bonny Doon e.g. Cigare Volant and his Moscato dessert wine. Friendly, unpretentious service, but the waiter struggled to remember who ordered what. Overall, an erratic meal, but with cooking a cut above the average for a local restaurant and with an excellent wine list.

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