The Anglesea Arms

26-06-2009
Andy Hayler  0 

The Anglesea Arms is tucked away in a residential street near the Goldhawk Road, and for some years has had a reputation as a good gastropub; I first came here many years ago but had such snail-like service it has taken me until now to want to return; this aspect seems fixed based on tonight’s visit. The dining area is fairly basic, with no tablecloths, paper napkins and a view into the open kitchen. Bread is bought in from Boulangerie de Paris and the sliced brown bread offered had pleasant texture (4/10). However if you want more than a slice per person then each subsequent pair of slices is at a supplement of £1.50, which seems distinctly mean to me.

The wine list uses a surprising number of coloured fonts, but the selections themselves are sensible enough once you get over the “ooh I just discovered colour printers” feel to the list. Examples are Felton Road Pinot Noir 2006 at £59 for a wine that retails at around £21, Bodega Ostatu Reserva 2004 for £36.50 compared to a shop price of around £14, and Shaw and Smith Shiraz 2006 costing £41 for a wine that will set you back around £14 in the shops.

I began with smoked eel with horseradish and watercress (£8.95). The eel had nice flavour, the horseradish cream is a classic accompaniment, and though the watercress leaves were fresh they were not the most tender selection of leaves I have seen; the declared egg mimosa seemed to be missing in action (2/10). A tart of leek, onion, mustard and feta (£6.50) was an unusual and successful filling, suffering only from the pastry being distinctly overcooked (even charred in places) and over-salted, even for me (still 2/10 given the nice filling).

Halibut (£17) was timed quite well, served with good mash, nicely cooked mousseron mushrooms and beans (3/10). On the side, some “Jersey Royals” (£3.50) had good texture but had none of the distinctive taste that you normally get with this potato; if these were really Jersey Royals then perhaps a change of supplier would be in order. My Old Spot pork (£15.50) was distinctly overcooked, however, and had dried out. This was served with pleasant black eyed beans and tender greens (2/10 overall for the very good greens; the pork was not good).

The slice of chocolate tart had fair texture but a slightly metallic hint in its taste, which I suspect was down to the chocolate used. It was served with some decent raspberries and raspberry sorbet (£5.25) that tasted of the fruit but was rather too solid in texture (1/10). Service was a little slow at first but then picked up, and was perfectly friendly. The dining room was doing well on this Tuesday night; certainly the menu is appealing and the cooking, though it had slips, was certainly a long way up from normal pub grub. However it didn’t seem quite consistent enough to me; for nearly £50 a head with a modest wine, one dessert between two and no coffee I would have at least hoped for something better.

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16-10-2008
chris.tewhata

I live a few minutes from The Anglesea .Working within the industry I was always impressed by the imaginative/ rustic seasonal food served but, I have noticed this slowly slipping . It now feels as if the components on a dish are for a faster service/higher turnaround which is a shame.In regards to the service - Unfortunately, I think they thrive on being above themselves as they know that another Chelsea wannabe suffocating the area will walk thru the doorBut, I'll still keep on going !

10-04-2008
Farrah Corbett

I was so pleased when I was first taken here... Big comfy old leather sofas and a roaring fire, not to mention interesting and yummy food. However, in the last year it's really gone downhill, when I went recently I was disappointed to see the fire unlit, on a very chilly day, and the soafa area has gone so more tables could be squeezed in and, perhaps most importantly, the food was very forgetable, all except the meat platter which consisting of a mean amount of 3 different types of salami really stuck in the throat...What a waste of potential!

18-01-2008
peter rosier

While the food isn't bad, the Angelsea has lost its cutting edge and othergastropubs in the area such as the Carpenter's Arms have caught up and surpassed it. The worst feature we recently found was charmless service. It takes little to say 'thank you' and ask how the food was. It didn't happen. I think the Angelsea needs a bit of a kick.

17-10-2007
m golledge

Really nice pub with great food and the best kept ale in London! Food changes all the time but if you spot the coet de boeuf with chips on the menu grab it! Lovely piece of steak and excellent home cooked chips. The sunday roast is also good and although pricey is the best to be had anywhere!As stated above the only downside is the price which has increased a little too much to warrant anymore then an occassional visit.